The Definitive BMW E46 3-Series (1999-2006) Suspension Refresh Guide! (Cheapest prices) 1/2015

This guide will provide essential information and part numbers to refresh your non-M E46 suspension.

I realize a lot of people are on budgets so I'll divide this list into three stages in order of most important (failure prone) to least important (more durable).

Stage 1:

Front control arm bushings w/ bracket, part number 31126783376 x 2

Genuine BMW Front Control Arm Bushing Set (With brackets for easy install)


Associated FCAB hardware:

Bracket bolts (four per car), part number 33306760652 x4 (Meyle HD units come w/ new bolts. If Genuine BMW does too, then no need to order new bolts for the brackets)  BMW bushings are great and they maintain the supple yet firm steering feel BMWs are known for.  You can take it a step further in both feedback/feel and durability and get a solid rubber design like Meyle HD.

At 50,000+ miles, these bushings are well on their way out, if not completely expired. Symptoms can and will include play in steering at any speed, click/clunk as you sharply apply the brake, or steering wheel vibration under braking or general looseness in the steering.

Install tips: 

If you're replacing just the bushings, you'll need a gear puller to separate the bushing and bracket from the end of the control arm.  To reinstall, lube up the control arm and bushing with 1 part soap to 20 parts water and firmly tap onto the arm with a rubber mallet.  The end of the control arm should be flush with the end of the bushing. Don't tap on too far and don't tap on too little.  When you reinstall the reinforcement plate, make sure you purchase 8 new bolts. These are designed to be changed every time you reinstall the plate. They shear in the event of a crash. You don't want to compromise these very crucial items.

Reinforcement plate bolts, link to buy:
http://amzn.to/1P7iZQ6


Struts and Shocks

Struts are in front, shocks are in back. If you have 50,000 or more miles on your E46, your Original Equipment (OE) Sachs-Boge Struts and Shocks are severely degraded, if not totally blown out. You won't notice this because your BMW is stiffly sprung and sway-barred.  It will still ride firm, turn sharply, etc.  The struts/shocks are crucial in wheel control. Your directional stability is severely compromised when your struts and shocks are failed.  This will also cause excess and uneven tire wear. The parts listed below are OE Sport Suspension units. (I'll probably edit this list to include ZHP as well)  Keep in mind these part numbers are for OE/OEM units.  Many people, including myself, go aftermarket.  Personally I went with Bilstein.

BMW performance ZHP, Strut left, part number 31312282459
BMW performance ZHP, Strut right, part number  31312282460

Sport suspension 9/01+ Strut left, part number 31316750791
Sport suspension 9/01+ right, part number 31316750792

Associated strut/shock hardware (highly recommended)

Strut mount (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xNV0jV
Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1y1CF1x

Strut tower reinforcement plates (VITAL--must install! Or you risk bending/distorting the chassis! Especially with stiffer shocks/struts) two per car, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xNV8Qk

Shocks

Shocks BMW performance ZHP, (2 per car) part number 33522282461 , link to buy: http://amzn.to/1BR2pOF
Shocks sport package, (2 per car) part number 33521096366, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1I5BbYB
Shock mount (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/14CVkGw


Associated hardware

Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xZPGvC
Paper gasket (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1y1Dc3B
Shock tower reinforcement plates (2 per car), part number 51718413359 (VITAL--must install!)

If your bump stops are in good condition, you may reuse. If soft, deteriorated, or chunks missing just replace it.  If you go aftermarket Bilstein, they feature internal bump stops. No need for external bump stops.

Install tips:

Perform this work at your own risk. Do not engage in any work that is beyond your comfort and/or skill level.  Always secure car on level ground using quality jackstands.  Use quality jacks to lift car only, not support.

You will need a quality set of spring compressors, a variety of heavy-duty tools such as a breaker bar, heavy duty ratchet, large socket set and an allen key set (I believe you'll need a 6mm allen key to prevent the strut piston from turning as you undo the top nut.)  You'll need a 21 or 22mm socket to undo the top nut. Make sure the socket has a hexed-head on it so you can turn it using a 21 or 22mm open end wrench as you hold the piston stationary using a 6mm allen key. This is self-explanatory as you begin to do the work.  A nice electric or air-powered impact gun can also do the job quite nicely.

For installation and torque specifics, consult TIS or a Bentley owners' manual.

Always reuse all washers in correct orientation.

Always replace suspension components in pairs.

Always replace any hardware that is severely corroded or otherwise compromised or damaged.

Always install quality name-brand parts.

Front swaybar endlinks

Chances are your front swaybar endlinks are torn where the rubber boots hold the grease at the balljoints.  Replace.  Link to buy: http://amzn.to/14CVIoC

Rear swaybar endlinks

Link to buy: http://amzn.to/1DI8ZIA

Install tips:

Both front wheels have to be unloaded before you begin to remove/install these. Use one 16mm socket and ratchet and a 16mm open-ended wrench on the other side to counter hold the bolt as you loosen the nut.  No special tools are needed. These need to be installed TIGHTLY or you WILL hear a clunk or pop while driving over bumps.  I can't stress this enough.

Front swaybar bushings

These definitely need replacing. Worn bushings will compromise the response and stability of side-to-side maneuvering.  Two per car:

23.5mm for 4/01+ vehicles with sport package, part number 33556751269

23mm (non-sport?) part number 31351097179.

Note: I ordered 23.5mm bushings but received 23mm bushings. I installed them without any problems. Slightly tighter fit.

Rear swaybar bushings

Rear: 18mm all sedans 4/01+, non-sport sedans up to 4/01, part number: 33551138104

19mm all sedans with sport suspension up to 4/01, part number: 33551094551

20mm for convertibles, people who have upgraded, and I believe XIs, part number 33551096669

Bonus: 20mm rear swaybar part number 33556751267

Stage 2

Control arms

Theres an inner and outer balljoint.  Typically the outer balljoint fails first and is encased in nylon (less durable) on non-M and non-ZHP models.  It is recommended to replace with ///M ZHP arms or Meyle HD arms.

OEM Lemforder Control Arm Kit (BOTH SIDES) LEFT/RIGHT 

(Don't forget Meyle Control Arm Bushings if yours are worn out)  I've never seen or experienced a failed set. Mine are rock solid after 60,000 miles.

Install tips:

Front of car on jackstands, medium and large pickle forks, plenty of extensions, wobbles, step-down adapters.  Access drivers side control arm inner nut from top and passenger side from down below.

Always buy brand new genuine BMW nuts for the control arms (two per arm) part number, 31106774714 x2, and 32216769539 x2.  Do not skimp on these. Do not use the ones supplied by Meyle.

Tierods (complete assembly)

Self-explanatory.  Any signs of play, damage or leaking of rubber balljoint casing, replace.

Tierod left part number 32211096897
Tierod right part number 32211096898

Tierood boot kit
Two per vehicle, part number 32131096910

Rear trailing arm bushing:

Replace these at 60,000+ miles.  Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer.  You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.

Part number 33326770817 (two per vehicle)

Install tips:

Use MIS RTAB tool. Nothing else. Don't even think about it or attempt it.  Use large hose clamp in center of bushing to completely compress the split joint as you begin to press it into the trailing arm. Once in, remove clamp.

Be sure to unclip/unscrew main brake line and associated lines clipped onto the trailing arm.  Have heavy duty breaker bar and torque wrench ready with two 18mm sockets.  Pre-load bushing carrier by aligning the same way it came out. For me the carrier was lined up PERFECTLY with a line naturally casted into the trailing arm. You'll see what I mean when you eyeball it.  Worked like magic.

Get an alignment immediately after. Your toe will be WAY out of spec no matter how much you try to get it lined up perfectly.

Steering Coupler/Flex-Disc/Universal Joint

Part number 32301094703. Apply blue loc-tite when reinstalling the bolts. Make sure threads are cleaned on all bolts and the two splined shafts which the coupler installs on.

Install tips: 

Do this part at the same time as the control arm bushings. The reinforcement plate will have to come off.

Stage 3

**REQUIRED TOOLS**

These require tons of labor and special tools. These are for the pickiest of picky.  You'll need an E36/E46 rear axle service kit which can be found here: http://amzn.to/2dQEm1G

An even CHEAPER axle service kit: http://amzn.to/2dWxqfF

Or unrelated: Fan clutch tool: http://amzn.to/2dWyHTU

Rear end subframe and rear upper/lower, inner/outer control arms bushings and balljoints.

Rear control arms/trailing arm (except main RTAB because it's listed under stage 2)

33326775551 x2
33326771828 x2
33321092247 x2
33326770824 x2

Subframe:

33316770783 x1
33316770784 x1
33316770781 x2


Differential:

33176770788 x2
33176751808 x1

Differential Bushing Bolts:

33176760337 x2 (Two small diff bolts)
33176760336 x1 (One large diff bolt)
33306760349 x1 (Self-locking nut for large diff bolt)