Showing posts with label 330i. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 330i. Show all posts

Saturday, March 12, 2016

Mango's secret detailing tips! How to keep your E46 looking FACTORY NEW!


HOW TO KEEP YOUR CAR LOOKING FACTORY NEW

I get this question asked of me several times a month:  "Mango, what products do you use?" or "Mango, what's your cleaning regimen?"

People often expect some exotic concoction of chemicals or some rigorous cleaning methods.  It's in fact quite the opposite.  Clean once very well and maintain thereafter very gently with minimal chemicals.

I won't say I use zero chemicals, but fewer than you'd think.

If you just bought your car second-hand, what you want to do is "think new."  That is, restore the car to its factory condition as close as possible.  This means strip away whatever is etched and embedded on the surface of the paint and interior.

For the paint, this means loose dirt, acid rain, environmental fallout, bug and tar, tree sap, and just crap in general that sticks on the surface of the paint.  Most people don't know better and just wash their car when it gets "dirty" to them and to most people, that usually means weeks or months.  This gives anything on the surface of the paint time to bond to it on a microscopic level.  It may not be visible to the naked eye the first few times, but over time it builds up before your paint starts looking like crap and you don't notice cause it has creeped up on you.

For the interior, this means years of skin, sweat, food, drinks, soda, odor causing bacteria, etc.

I'll teach you how to strip the car down of anything that doesn't belong there.

Washing


Mango's E36 M3 using Chemical Guys Foam Bath

First things first, pressure wash.

Pressure washing allows you to blast off as much dirt, grime, sand, and loose stones and pebbles as possible so you don't drag them over your paint when you scrub your car with whatever you scrub your car with.  The mistake people often make is they touch their car too much when cleaning it. You want to clean your car with as little contact as possible.  This minimizes fine microswirls and scratches.  If you have scratches, I've used Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 with tremendous results. Make sure you use a quality automotive clay bar before you polish or else you'll just be polishing whatever grit is on your paint into the clear coat! 

After you have thoroughly blasted your car with high pressure water, you can elect to use a pre-soak shampoo/foam.  I like Chemical Guys CWS110 .  It takes paint cleansing a step further.  You can use it in conjunction with a foam cannon kit like the Chemical Guys HOL302. If you have your own water connection, I highly recommend a high pressure washer like the Ivation Electric Pressure Washer.  Yes proper car care can be pricey.  Your local coin-op car wash works fine as well.

If you decide to use a foam cannon and foam your car, rinse it then use some high quality chemical guys car wash soap and a high quality car wash mitt and scrub your car by hand.

Then you'll need to clay.  I recommend Chemical Guys CLY402 clay bar (medium).  Yes you notice a trend here. Chemical Guys make some damn good affordable car care products.  You'll see though I'm not exclusive to Chemical Guys.  I'll recommend non- CG stuff later on in this article.

The clay is absolutely essential to removing stubborn road debris, grit, stuck on grime.  You'll be surprised what clay is able to remove.  Your clay bar will literally be a different color after you are done.  Your paint will feel glass smooth after you are done.  Remember the whole goal here is to return the car as to close as a factory state as possible! This means freshly manufactured and painted panels on the BMW factory floor.  This means removing anything and everything not there (on a molecular level) when the panels left the factory.  As close to it as you can get!  Tips: Keep turning, stretching, and re-molding your claybar as you use it.  Do one section at a time and be thorough being sure to overlap the area you just did.  Use plenty of lubricant such as Chemical Guys clay bar lubricant.  You can also use chemical guys car wash soap and water.  After you are done claying your paint and glass, give the car yet another wash and rinse.  Yes this is going to take all day.


So you've stripped the paint of all gunk and debris.  Now what?  Well, that depends.  Does your car have swirl marks?  Would you like to remove them?  For most people, a proper wash and wax is good enough.  If you have light swirls, it may be better to leave them alone and not correct them.  Before taking any paint correction measures to your car, ALWAYS take a digital paint depth gauge to the paint and assess whether or not you have enough clear coat first!  You do not want to correct a car with failing or thin clear coat.

If you are brave and want to correct swirl marks and other fine scratches, proceed at your own risk to the next step.


Paint correction





There are a multitude of ways to correct your clear coat.  It's best left to the professionals. You only get one chance at it.  But if you want to, there are safer choices.  The safer and most popular choice is using what's called a dual-action rotary tool.  It's a machine specifically designed to rotate in such a way where it minimizes the risk of burning your paint or creating buffer holograms.  A popular choice is the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher.   These are intended for light to mild corrections.  This will do fine for most peoples needs. Of course you'll need appropriate pads and polish to attack those swirls safely and effectively.  If you feel unsure, seek a professional's help.  Never attempt this if you don't know what you are doing.

There are other more severe correction methods using heavy duty machines but I'll leave that for another day.  I feel that if you are reading this page for paint care tips then you should already know how to use such a machine.  There's videos on youtube on it if you wish to learn.


Protection - WAX/Sealant




OK so if you've removed your swirls or your swirls are minimal and acceptable to you and your paint is cleanesed and clayed properly, the next step is protection!

My preferred method as most of you know is Collinite IW 845 insulator wax!   This stuff is awesome.  It's known for it's stellar durability.  Nothing touches it as far as durability is concerned.  Very easy to work with and comes off very easy.  Let it sit for at least half a day to a day before removing it for best results.  Use it on glass and wheels as well.  This is my preferred and only method of sealant.  Sometimes if I have time, I'll throw on two coats.  Use it with foam wax applicators.


Paint Maintenance




My preferred paint maintenance method is once a week pressure wash and a quality quick detailer such as Chemical Guys V7 Hybrid . This stuff smells great and I've never used anything like it. Very high quality product.  The paint glosses like you wouldn't believe and becomes super slick after you apply this with a microfiber. Once you've done all the above, it's VERY EASY to maintain your paint!  Pressure wash regularly and then use a quality microfiber and detailing spray like Hybrid V7 to give the paint a nice glossy sealed finish then wax with a coat of Collinite twice a year.

Mango's E36 M3 after a full DIY Professional Paint Correction using all the above Products.  As you can see, the paint is GLASS.  Before was extremely faded with tons of swirls.  Near perfection now!


Interior

So what's the equivalent of pressure washing and claying your interior?

Steam.  One of my favorite tools is my Wagner 915 Steamer.  I can't tell you how much I like this steamer.  Nothing better to strip off odors, bacteria, gunk, grime, grease, etc with steam. You'll literally see black water dripping off whatever you are spraying the steam onto.  Stereo buttons, leather seats, dashboard, door panels, anything and everything.  Of course use it wisely and don't direct steam into any electrical/screen areas for too long.  Simply apply the steam to whatever you are trying to clean and wipe off with a microfiber. Repeat if stains are stubborn.

I've never had any problems.  The steam will instantly melt away dirt.  I've used it on calipers too to watch stubborn grease literally melt off and run onto the ground.  I use it inside the house too. It's so awesome.  Works great on shoes as well!  Get one and tell the wife it's for the house.

Then after you have stripped your interior away from years of dirt and grime, you simply maintain it.
Personally I use 1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium cleaner.  It cleans and protects.  It's like a good finishing touch/detailer/maintainer for your interior.  You can also use a damp cloth if you wish. But this stuff is the same company that makes BMW's car care cleaning products.

I also love Gummipflege.  Use it to condition (after cleaning of course) door seals, trunk seals, all rubber and trim.

There you have it.  Simpy clean WELL. Strip and steam and clay EVERYTHING down to the bare surface.  Then correct if necessary and PROTECT!  Then maintainance after that is simple!

You don't need to waste money on specialty products for every single different part of your car. Wheel cleaner, tire cleaner, this and that.  Most of this overlaps.  Treat your wheels like you treat your paint.  Scrub your tires with car wash soap and a tire brush.

Exterior Trim

Many people use Back to Black.  I don't I feel that's just oil people cake on to give the appearance of black.  I've only used one thing to restore interior trim: The Magic Eraser. This is a micro-abrasive so be careful around painted surfaces.  Use painters tape to mask off painted areas you don't want to scratch. This will literally scrub off all the white haze that's accumulated on your trim for years.  People ask me how my trim looks so factory new and deep black.  This is the secret.  It's been picked up over the years and becoming popular.  Of course if you want your trim extra black, I suppose you could use back to black.


Tires and Wheels

Mango's own Professional Pilot Super Sports and M68s!

As mentioned, for wheels. A simple car wash soap and rinse will do followed up by a layer of Collinite 845.  As for tires, Chemical Guys tire dressing. 


Friday, January 9, 2015

The Definitive BMW E46 3-Series (1999-2006) Suspension Refresh Guide! (Cheapest prices) 1/2015





This guide will provide essential information and part numbers to refresh your non-M E46 suspension.

I realize a lot of people are on budgets so I'll divide this list into three stages in order of most important (failure prone) to least important (more durable).

Stage 1:

Front control arm bushings w/ bracket, part number 31126783376 x 2

Genuine BMW Front Control Arm Bushing Set (With brackets for easy install)


Associated FCAB hardware:

Bracket bolts (four per car), part number 33306760652 x4 (Meyle HD units come w/ new bolts. If Genuine BMW does too, then no need to order new bolts for the brackets)  BMW bushings are great and they maintain the supple yet firm steering feel BMWs are known for.  You can take it a step further in both feedback/feel and durability and get a solid rubber design like Meyle HD.

At 50,000+ miles, these bushings are well on their way out, if not completely expired. Symptoms can and will include play in steering at any speed, click/clunk as you sharply apply the brake, or steering wheel vibration under braking or general looseness in the steering.

Install tips: 

If you're replacing just the bushings, you'll need a gear puller to separate the bushing and bracket from the end of the control arm.  To reinstall, lube up the control arm and bushing with 1 part soap to 20 parts water and firmly tap onto the arm with a rubber mallet.  The end of the control arm should be flush with the end of the bushing. Don't tap on too far and don't tap on too little.  When you reinstall the reinforcement plate, make sure you purchase 8 new bolts. These are designed to be changed every time you reinstall the plate. They shear in the event of a crash. You don't want to compromise these very crucial items.

Reinforcement plate bolts, link to buy:
http://amzn.to/1P7iZQ6


Struts and Shocks

Struts are in front, shocks are in back. If you have 50,000 or more miles on your E46, your Original Equipment (OE) Sachs-Boge Struts and Shocks are severely degraded, if not totally blown out. You won't notice this because your BMW is stiffly sprung and sway-barred.  It will still ride firm, turn sharply, etc.  The struts/shocks are crucial in wheel control. Your directional stability is severely compromised when your struts and shocks are failed.  This will also cause excess and uneven tire wear. The parts listed below are OE Sport Suspension units. (I'll probably edit this list to include ZHP as well)  Keep in mind these part numbers are for OE/OEM units.  Many people, including myself, go aftermarket.  Personally I went with Bilstein.

BMW performance ZHP, Strut left, part number 31312282459
BMW performance ZHP, Strut right, part number  31312282460

Sport suspension 9/01+ Strut left, part number 31316750791
Sport suspension 9/01+ right, part number 31316750792

Associated strut/shock hardware (highly recommended)

Strut mount (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xNV0jV
Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1y1CF1x

Strut tower reinforcement plates (VITAL--must install! Or you risk bending/distorting the chassis! Especially with stiffer shocks/struts) two per car, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xNV8Qk

Shocks

Shocks BMW performance ZHP, (2 per car) part number 33522282461 , link to buy: http://amzn.to/1BR2pOF
Shocks sport package, (2 per car) part number 33521096366, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1I5BbYB
Shock mount (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/14CVkGw


Associated hardware

Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xZPGvC
Paper gasket (2 per car), link to buy: http://amzn.to/1y1Dc3B
Shock tower reinforcement plates (2 per car), part number 51718413359 (VITAL--must install!)

If your bump stops are in good condition, you may reuse. If soft, deteriorated, or chunks missing just replace it.  If you go aftermarket Bilstein, they feature internal bump stops. No need for external bump stops.

Install tips:

Perform this work at your own risk. Do not engage in any work that is beyond your comfort and/or skill level.  Always secure car on level ground using quality jackstands.  Use quality jacks to lift car only, not support.

You will need a quality set of spring compressors, a variety of heavy-duty tools such as a breaker bar, heavy duty ratchet, large socket set and an allen key set (I believe you'll need a 6mm allen key to prevent the strut piston from turning as you undo the top nut.)  You'll need a 21 or 22mm socket to undo the top nut. Make sure the socket has a hexed-head on it so you can turn it using a 21 or 22mm open end wrench as you hold the piston stationary using a 6mm allen key. This is self-explanatory as you begin to do the work.  A nice electric or air-powered impact gun can also do the job quite nicely.

For installation and torque specifics, consult TIS or a Bentley owners' manual.

Always reuse all washers in correct orientation.

Always replace suspension components in pairs.

Always replace any hardware that is severely corroded or otherwise compromised or damaged.

Always install quality name-brand parts.

Front swaybar endlinks

Chances are your front swaybar endlinks are torn where the rubber boots hold the grease at the balljoints.  Replace.  Link to buy: http://amzn.to/14CVIoC

Rear swaybar endlinks

Link to buy: http://amzn.to/1DI8ZIA

Install tips:

Both front wheels have to be unloaded before you begin to remove/install these. Use one 16mm socket and ratchet and a 16mm open-ended wrench on the other side to counter hold the bolt as you loosen the nut.  No special tools are needed. These need to be installed TIGHTLY or you WILL hear a clunk or pop while driving over bumps.  I can't stress this enough.

Front swaybar bushings

These definitely need replacing. Worn bushings will compromise the response and stability of side-to-side maneuvering.  Two per car:

23.5mm for 4/01+ vehicles with sport package, part number 33556751269

23mm (non-sport?) part number 31351097179.

Note: I ordered 23.5mm bushings but received 23mm bushings. I installed them without any problems. Slightly tighter fit.

Rear swaybar bushings

Rear: 18mm all sedans 4/01+, non-sport sedans up to 4/01, part number: 33551138104

19mm all sedans with sport suspension up to 4/01, part number: 33551094551

20mm for convertibles, people who have upgraded, and I believe XIs, part number 33551096669

Bonus: 20mm rear swaybar part number 33556751267

Stage 2

Control arms

Theres an inner and outer balljoint.  Typically the outer balljoint fails first and is encased in nylon (less durable) on non-M and non-ZHP models.  It is recommended to replace with ///M ZHP arms or Meyle HD arms.

OEM Lemforder Control Arm Kit (BOTH SIDES) LEFT/RIGHT 

(Don't forget Meyle Control Arm Bushings if yours are worn out)  I've never seen or experienced a failed set. Mine are rock solid after 60,000 miles.

Install tips:

Front of car on jackstands, medium and large pickle forks, plenty of extensions, wobbles, step-down adapters.  Access drivers side control arm inner nut from top and passenger side from down below.

Always buy brand new genuine BMW nuts for the control arms (two per arm) part number, 31106774714 x2, and 32216769539 x2.  Do not skimp on these. Do not use the ones supplied by Meyle.

Tierods (complete assembly)

Self-explanatory.  Any signs of play, damage or leaking of rubber balljoint casing, replace.

Tierod left part number 32211096897
Tierod right part number 32211096898

Tierood boot kit
Two per vehicle, part number 32131096910

Rear trailing arm bushing:

Replace these at 60,000+ miles.  Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer.  You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.

Part number 33326770817 (two per vehicle)

Install tips:

Use MIS RTAB tool. Nothing else. Don't even think about it or attempt it.  Use large hose clamp in center of bushing to completely compress the split joint as you begin to press it into the trailing arm. Once in, remove clamp.

Be sure to unclip/unscrew main brake line and associated lines clipped onto the trailing arm.  Have heavy duty breaker bar and torque wrench ready with two 18mm sockets.  Pre-load bushing carrier by aligning the same way it came out. For me the carrier was lined up PERFECTLY with a line naturally casted into the trailing arm. You'll see what I mean when you eyeball it.  Worked like magic.

Get an alignment immediately after. Your toe will be WAY out of spec no matter how much you try to get it lined up perfectly.

Steering Coupler/Flex-Disc/Universal Joint

Part number 32301094703. Apply blue loc-tite when reinstalling the bolts. Make sure threads are cleaned on all bolts and the two splined shafts which the coupler installs on.

Install tips: 

Do this part at the same time as the control arm bushings. The reinforcement plate will have to come off.

Stage 3




**REQUIRED TOOLS**

These require tons of labor and special tools. These are for the pickiest of picky.  You'll need an E36/E46 rear axle service kit which can be found here: http://amzn.to/2dQEm1G

An even CHEAPER axle service kit: http://amzn.to/2dWxqfF

Or unrelated: Fan clutch tool: http://amzn.to/2dWyHTU

Rear end subframe and rear upper/lower, inner/outer control arms bushings and balljoints.

Rear control arms/trailing arm (except main RTAB because it's listed under stage 2)

33326775551 x2
33326771828 x2
33321092247 x2
33326770824 x2

Subframe:

33316770783 x1
33316770784 x1
33316770781 x2


Differential:

33176770788 x2
33176751808 x1

Differential Bushing Bolts:

33176760337 x2 (Two small diff bolts)
33176760336 x1 (One large diff bolt)
33306760349 x1 (Self-locking nut for large diff bolt)


The Definitive BMW E46 3-Series (1999-2006) Maintenance Guide complete with best prices! 1/2015



How does Mango care for his E46?

You just bought your non-M E46 (323/328, 325/330) and you are probably wondering: What do I do now?

Lets start with the basics on how to make sure your E46 is BULLETPROOF for years to come. These are very common failure areas for the E46 and they WILL leave you stranded.  Fortunately, it doesn't cost that much to bring your E46 to roadworthy condition!

Battery - $100-$200

Right off the bat, the first thing I did when I bought my E46 was throw away whatever battery is in the trunk. Unless you have receipts proving the battery is newer than 5 years old, replace it.  A weak battery is known to cause many problems with the electrical systems in the form of cluster lighting up with warning lights to the car randomly doing other electrical-related things.  The most obvious one is your car not starting.  The E46 relies heavily on proper voltage or the electronics tend to be unreliable.  This is one of the few parts you should get at Autozone or Walmart.  Group size 94 or size H8.

E46 Voltage regulator

The voltage regulator is located on the back of the alternator. It regulates voltage to ensure proper operation of the electrical system. Basically by around 6-10 years, they start to fail. This will kill a new battery.  Replace it.This one is a bit tricky because you'll have to pull your alternator out to know which kind you need.  There's a rounded D-shaped connector and squared off rectangle connector. Pray you have the squared off rectangle connector because it's cheaper.  The D-shape connector is found by searching under the BMW Z4.   If you want to buy a rebuilt alternator, check out alternatorpros.com.

E46 Final Stage Resistor $45

This must be replaced. It can drain your battery (killing it permanently no matter how new or old it is) and cause your blower to blow inconsistently or not at all.  Replace it.  Don't be stuck in the summer time with your AC refusing to blow cold air or worse yet a completely dead battery all because you wanted to skimp on $45!

Genuine BMW 5W-30 Engine oil

Mobil 1 0W-40 Engine oil - Approved by Mercedes Benz, Lexus, Porsche, etc. German Specification.

Change your engine oil and filter anywhere between 7,500 and 12,000 miles.  You can likely go up to 15,000 miles without any problems as our cars hold 7 quarts, however for peace of mind, follow the 7,500-12,000 guideline.

Per the BMW owner's manual, you should check the oil level 5 minutes after a hot engine has been shut down. The dipstick is calibrated to read accurately after 5 minutes has passed.

Note: If you track your car, love to drive in a spirited matter, and/or experience lifter tick noise, it is common practice to overfill by one quart for a total of eight quarts.

You should be using oil with a specification ACEA B3/B4 (extended drain/high performance criteria) and/or LL-01.  The following oils are the most readily available proper oil for your car:

Genuine BMW 5W-30
Castrol European Formula 0W-30
Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40
Pennzoil Ultra 5W-40 European Formula

Genuine BMW-Mann E46 Oil Filters  $5

E46 Oil Filter Housing Gasket  $4

You can use any OE-spec parts store filter in a pinch, but I recommend using Mahle or Mann OE-quality/OEM filters.  Don't skimp here. This is the lifeline of your engine.

Mahle supplies filters to BMWs for their ///M cars.  Mann supplies for non-M.  Both are fine but I prefer Mahle--the quality seems more robust/high-end. Part number:

Spark plugs

Replace every 60,000 miles (BMW says 100,000) NGK BKR6EQUP (6)

Fuel filter, link to buy  $50

OEM Mahle.  If your upper intake boot has an "F" connector with a vacuum line attached, your car has the integrated fuel pressure regulator.  Most E46s come with this. I believe the M56 SULEV  325 cars use the plain in/out filter. Do this every 50,000 miles.

Differential oil, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1wEZi9j

Synthetic 75W-90 gear oil such as Mobil 1 75W-90.  Your non-LSD diff holds approximately 1 quart.  Do this every 50,000 miles

Transmission oil, link to buy (automatic--be sure to check your specific model requirements at your local BMW dealership) http://amzn.to/14CQPvJ or manual: http://amzn.to/1xZNKn1

Automatic Transmission

You should change your automatic transmission fluid and filter with OE or OE-spec'd high-quality fluid every 50-75k miles.  The type and amount of fluid will depend on your year/make/model.  I will list the various types of automatic transmissions and their corresponding fluid:

323i/iS/iC 7/98-3/00, 328i/iS 6/98+ - GM 5L40 (A5S 360R) Texaco ETL 7045E, supercedes ETL 7045, BMW part number: 83220026922

323i/Ci 3/00-8/00, 325i/Ci/Cic 8/00+, 325iT 3/01+, 330i/Ci/Cic 6/00+ - ZF 5HP19 (A5S 325Z), Esso ATF LT 71141, BMW part number: 83229407807

325xi/xiT 8/00+, 325iT 8/00+, 330xi 8/00+ - GM GM5 (A5S 390R), Texaco ETL 8072B, BMW part number: 83220024359

Manual Transmission

BMW MTF-LT-2, or equivalent http://amzn.to/1xZNKn1

Air filters, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xZNPXK

These should be replaced at roughly every 15,000 miles.  Use Genuine/OEM Mann.  http://amzn.to/1xZNPXK

Cabin air filter, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1I5vhqg

These should be replaced at roughly every 15,000 miles.

Idle Control Valve, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1wF0k5d

Clean every 50,000 miles or replace.  I use SeaFoam Deep Creep: http://amzn.to/1x6rd0D

You might want to replace the rubber grommet which seals it to the intake manifold.  Link to buy: http://amzn.to/1y1A7QV

Clean throttle body

Couldn't find a DIY, but personally I recommend cleaning it.  From the outside (front) mine appeared to be spotless.

The backside was a VERY different story.  Use throttle body cleaner. Requires removal of the airbox, upper and lower intake boots, and electrcial wire junction box.  Four bolts hold it on.  Replace the rubber throttle body gasket.

Throttle body gasket for 323/325/328:  http://amzn.to/14CS1iA

Throttle body gasket for the 330: http://amzn.to/1DI6sOL

DISA Valve

This part can also cause vacuum leaks. It works by altering the volume of the intake manifold depending on engine operation/speed for optimum power and torque under all driving conditions. This system is part of the heart and soul of the BMW M54 powerplant.  Don't skimp here. Remove and inspect yours to ensure the flap is not loose.

You should feel resistance as you manually operate the flap. There should be no excessive noises or rattling.

325/2.5L engines currently use this part: http://amzn.to/14CSmSq

330/3.0L engines currently use this part: http://amzn.to/14cWgAU

323/328 - 2.3L & 2.8L engines appear to currently use this part: http://amzn.to/1BXNkLx


Brake fluid, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1BR04Dj

You should completely replace and bleed your brake system every two years or 25,000 miles or more frequently if you see track use or have overheated your brakes/fluid.  I recommend ATE Super Blue (or amber if you had blue last) :

Some also use Motul for more serious heavy-duty driving.


Valve cover gasket, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1BR09a1

Major source of leaks.  If the front or passenger side (right side) of your engine is covered in oil, then your valve cover gasket is leaking. By 60,000 miles, these are hard, dry, and brittle.  Use Permatex Ultra Black at half moon areas and vanos seams.  LESS IS MORE. Use very little sealant. Don't forget the 15 rubber grommets: part number: [B]11121437395[/B].  Up to 9/02, part number [B]11129070990 [/B]and 9/02+: [B]11120030496[/B].  If you experience repeated leaking, your valve cover could be damaged or warped.

Oil filter housing gasket, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1x6se90

Major source of MAJOR leaks. The left side of the block will be wet and you'll have puddles in your driveway. Replace when leaking.

Vanos line, link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xZODvH

Do this when you replace the oil filter housing gasket.  Link to buy: http://amzn.to/1xZODvH

Also replace four 14x20 copper sealing gaskets, link to buy 4x gaskets: http://amzn.to/1I5xWjW

Power steering

Use ATF Dexron III only.  Replace reservoir as it has integrated filter.  Link to buy reservoir: http://amzn.to/1wF2h1u

Also trim and re-clamp (using new universal clamps) the power steering lines to the bottom of the reservoir and to the return line at the pump. The BMW clamps get loose over time and oil leaks/seeps out.

Exterior/interior

Of course, clean the exterior/interior and engine compartment.  There's nothing worse than a dirty car with an engine compartment full of leaves, debris, oil, spiders, and dead rats. Cleaning also can help reveal problem areas or parts that are leaking.  A clean engine is also more satisfying to work on.

I use the Wagner 915 steamer for my interior, engine compartment, and certain exterior items as well. I can't even begin to tell you how well this works! Great for home too. No need for chemicals (Saves $$!!)

Cooling System Guide (Complete)

http://e46cooling.blogspot.com/2014/10/parts-sources-urlhttpwww.html

These are the absolute bare essentials to have a nice running and decently reliable car.   It doesn't stop here though.

Links or products subject to change.  Research your particular vehicle, part numbers, and/or needs for your application.