The Ultimate BMW E46 Suspension Refresh Guide with Complete Parts List

BMW E46 Suspension Guide

by E46Mango

This guide will provide essential information to refresh your non-M E46 suspension.

I realize a lot of people are on budgets so I'll divide this list into three stages in order of most important (failure prone) to least important (more durable). Start with Stage 1 and work your way up to Stage 3.

Stage 1: 

At 50,000+ miles, these bushings are well on their way out, if not completely expired. Symptoms can and will include play in steering at any speed, click/clunk as you sharply apply the brake, or steering wheel vibration under braking or general looseness in the steering.

Front control arm bushings w/ bracket, link to buy OEM Lemforder or Meyle HD

BMW bushings are great and they maintain the supple yet firm steering feel BMWs are known for. You can take it a step further in both feedback/feel and durability and get a solid rubber design like Meyle HD.

Associated hardware (optional):

Bracket bolts (four per car), link to buy x4 (Meyle HD units come w/ new bolts. If Genuine BMW does too, then no need to order new bolts for the brackets)

Install tips:

If you're replacing just the bushings, you'll need a gear puller to separate the bushing and bracket from the end of the control arm. To reinstall, lube up the control arm and bushing with 1 part soap to 20 parts water and firmly tap onto the arm with a rubber mallet. The end of the control arm should be flush with the end of the bushing. Don't tap on too far and don't tap on too little. When you reinstall the reinforcement plate, make sure you purchase 8 new bolts. These are designed to be changed every time you reinstall the plate. They shear in the event of a crash. You don't want to compromise these very crucial items.

Reinforcement plate bolts: Part number Link to buy all 8 bolts

Resources:

http://www.understeer.com/lcab.shtml

Struts 

Struts are in front, shocks are in back. If you have 50,000 or more miles on your E46, your Original Equipment (OE) Sachs-Boge Struts and Shocks are severely degraded, if not totally blown out. You won't notice this because your BMW is stiffly sprung and sway-barred. It will still ride firm, turn sharply, etc. The struts/shocks are crucial in wheel control. Your directional stability is severely compromised when your struts and shocks are failed. This will also cause excess and uneven tire wear. The parts listed below are OE Sport Suspension units. (I'll probably edit this list to include ZHP as well) Keep in mind these part numbers are for OE/OEM units. Many people, including myself, go aftermarket. Personally I went with Bilstein.

BMW performance ZHP, Strut left, link to buy

BMW performance ZHP, Strut right,link to buy

Sport suspension 9/01+ Strut left, link to buy

Sport suspension 9/01+ right, link to buy

Associated hardware

Strut mount (2 per car), link to buy

Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy

Again, these are for stock replacements. Some people go aftermarket as the firmer shocks tend to eat at and destroy the stock design as it is too flimsy. I went with Rogue Engineering.

Strut tower reinforcement plates (VITAL--must install!) two per car, link to buy

Shocks

Shocks BMW performance ZHP, (2 per car) link to buy

Shocks sport package, (2 per car) link to buy

Shock mount (2 per car), link to buy

Associated hardware

Bump stop (2 per car), link to buy

Paper gasket (2 per car), link to buy

Shock tower reinforcement plates (2 per car), link to buy (VITAL--must install!)

If your bump stops are in good condition, you may reuse. If soft, deteriorated, or chunks missing just replace it. If you go aftermarket Bilstein, they feature internal bump stops. No need for external bump stops.

Install tips:

Perform this work at your own risk. Do not engage in any work that is beyond your comfort and/or skill level. Always secure car on level ground using quality jackstands. Use quality jacks to lift car only, not support.

You will need a quality set of spring compressors, a variety of heavy-duty tools such as a breaker bar, heavy duty ratchet, large socket set and an allen key set (I believe you'll need a 6mm allen key to prevent the strut piston from turning as you undo the top nut.) You'll need a 21 or 22mm socket to undo the top nut. Make sure the socket has a hexed-head on it so you can turn it using a 21 or 22mm open end wrench as you hold the piston stationary using a 6mm allen key. This is self-explanatory as you begin to do the work. A nice electric or air-powered impact gun can also do the job quite nicely.

For installation and torque specifics, consult TIS or a Bentley owners' manual.

Always reuse all washers in correct orientation.

Always replace suspension components in pairs.

Always replace any hardware that is severely corroded or otherwise compromised or damaged.

Always install quality name-brand parts.

Front swaybar endlinks

Chances are your front swaybar endlinks are torn where the rubber boots hold the grease at the balljoints. Replace. link to buy (2 per car).

Rear swaybar endlinks

These are typically solid and last a lifetime. link to buy (2 per car)

Install tips:

Both front wheels have to be unloaded before you begin to remove/install these. Use one 16mm socket and ratchet and a 16mm open-ended wrench on the other side to counter hold the bolt as you loosen the nut. No special tools are needed. These need to be installed TIGHTLY or you WILL hear a clunk or pop while driving over bumps. I can't stress this enough.

Front swaybar bushings

These definitely need replacing. Worn bushings will compromise the response and stability of side-to-side maneuvering. Two per car.

23.5mm for 4/01+ vehicles with sport package, link to buy

23mm (non-sport?) link to buy.

Note: I ordered 23.5mm bushings but received 23mm bushings. I installed them without any problems. Slightly tighter fit.

Rear swaybar bushings

Rear: 

18mm all sedans 4/01+, non-sport sedans up to 4/01, link to buy 

19mm all sedans with sport suspension up to 4/01, link to buy

20mm for convertibles, people who have upgraded, and I believe XIs, part number 33551096669

Bonus: 20mm rear swaybar part number 33556751267

Stage 2 

Control arms

Theres an inner and outer balljoint. Typically the outer balljoint fails first and is encased in nylon (less durable) on non-M and non-ZHP models. It is recommended to replace with ///M ZHP arms or Meyle HD arms.

Control arm left, link to buy

Control arm right, link to buy

Or you can just order the Meyle HD set.

Install tips:

Tools recommended: Front of car on jackstands, medium and large pickle forks, plenty of extensions, wobbles, step-down adapters. Access drivers side control arm inner nut from top and passenger side from down below.

Always buy brand new genuine BMW nuts for the control arms (two per arm) part number, 31106774714 x2, and 32216769539 x2. Do not skimp on these. Do not use the ones supplied by Meyle.

Tierods (complete assembly)

Self-explanatory. Any signs of play, damage or leaking of rubber balljoint casing, replace.

Tierod left link to buy

Tierod right link to buy

Tierood boot kit

Two per vehicle, link to buy

Rear trailing arm bushings:

Replace these at 60,000+ miles. Worn bushings will degrade rear-end stability and basically cause your rear wheels to excessively and unexpectedly to steer. You'll notice this especially when accelerating from a stop.

link to buy (two per vehicle)

Install tips:

Use MIS RTAB tool. Nothing else. Don't even think about it or attempt it. Use large hose clamp in center of bushing to completely compress the split joint as you begin to press it into the trailing arm. Once in, remove clamp.

Be sure to unclip/unscrew main brake line and associated lines clipped onto the trailing arm. Have heavy duty breaker bar and torque wrench ready with two 18mm sockets. Pre-load bushing carrier by aligning the same way it came out. For me the carrier was lined up PERFECTLY with a line naturally casted into the trailing arm. You'll see what I mean when you eyeball it. Worked like magic.

Get an alignment immediately after. Your toe will be WAY out of spec no matter how much you try to get it lined up perfectly.

Steering Coupler/Flex-Disc/Universal Joint

link to buy. Apply blue loc-tite when reinstalling the bolts. Make sure threads are cleaned on all bolts and the two splined shafts which the coupler installs on.

Install tips:

Do this part at the same time as the control arm bushings. The reinforcement plate will have to come off.

Stage 3 

These require tons of labor and special tools. These are for the pickiest of picky. You'll need an E36/E46 rear axle service kit which can be found online.

Rear control arms/trailing arm (except main RTAB because it's listed under stage 2)

link to buy x2

link to buy x2

link to buy x2

link to buy x2

Subframe:

link to buy the entire set of 4

Differential:

link to buy x2

link to buy x1

Differential Bushing Bolts:

link to buy x2 (Two small diff bolts)

link to buy x1 (One large diff bolt)

link to buy x1 (Self-locking nut for large diff bolt)

Popular Upgrades:

E46 M3 ST Coilovers
E46 M3 Koni Suspension
E46 Hotchkis Sway Bar Set

Thank you for using my links to support me in helping you. Every time you use my links I earn a small portion from your purchase and it doesn't affect you at all. Appreciate it!

Prices, parts, availability, and listings/links subject to change. Do your own research before buying. Thank you!

How to repair curb rash on your wheels for less than $15! DIY!

How to Repair Curb Rash for less than $15

My curbed Lexus IS F-Sport Wheels :(

I curbed my wheels! Oh no.  And I didn't feel like having a pro repair it for $200.  So decided to try this myself.  This was my first time doing it and it came out great! Less than $15!


Here's what I purchased:

Sandpaper kit: http://amzn.to/2cvIXWK

Perfect match for Lexus F-Sport wheel paint with applicator and clear coat: http://amzn.to/2cQmJ1l

For German BMW, Mercedes, Audi, you may consider trying a classic silver paint stick: http://amzn.to/2cH7fY7
(Look up your car's paint code to find your closest favorite match!)

Glazing putty: http://amzn.to/2cG5Q4j

Painters tape: http://amzn.to/2dfU0Bn

Start by using painters tape and expose only the area you are working with so you don't accidentally scratch or sand the good paint. Then using a q-tip or similar tool, apply the glazing putty over the affected area. try to be as smooth and even with the wheel as possible so you don't have to sand excessively. Let sit 15-30 minutes

Then take your sandpaper (i used 200 grit) and fold it into a small square. And slowly sand down smooth the hardened putty. Don't be afraid of scratching/scuffing the surrounding paint between the curb rash. do the whole area. After you are done, you can apply more putty and repeat the process. I decided I didn't need the wheel to look absolutely perfect. Just good enough. Then shake up your phantom gray pearl paint and apply it over the putty smoothly. Let dry then apply clear!

The paint I used:

And the finished product. I could've spent more time on it and sanded it down more and smoothed the paint out before applying clear. But I don't have time for it and it's good enough for me. It looks WAY better than before. And from normal viewing distance you can't tell. You have to go up close. I actually had to look very closely and squint to find the damage so i could take a picture. The touch up paint is a perfect match. Keep a spare in your glove box to touch up nicks and curb rash. You don't even need to putty the curb rash if you want, just paint over it so it's not noticeable!

Enjoy!

Mango's Gadget Review: Thrunite TN4A CREE LED Flashlight -- 1,150 Lumens

Thrunite TN4A

The best LED flashlight I've ever owned

1,150 Lumens,  AA-powered,  5 Modes, IPX-8 Waterproof, Distance=326m, $49

Thrunite TN4A CREE LED Flashlight

 (Photo taken with my Canon EOS M3 and Canon 22mm F/2 prime lens)

I've owned a few LED Flashlights in my day including the RAV LED Flashlight/Portable Battery Pack, but none as cool as this.  After reading rave reviews of this flashlight, I decided to give it a try.  I wanted something more dedicated to flashlight duty and a bit more robust and larger.  Something I can light up a whole room with and stand up on end.  I got my Thrunite TN4A from Amazon.  Received it the next day with Amazon Prime--awesome!

Cool things about this flashlight: 

• Powered by CREE XP-L V6 LED with a 20+ year lifespan. This thing will last forever.
• Runs on every day commonly sourced 4XAA NIMH batteries.  Personally I'm running Sanyo  AA Eneloops in them and they're great.
• Waterproof to IPX-8 standards.  1.5 meters @ 30 minutes.  This thing has some serious sealing.
• ITC Technology.  This is fancy speak for temperature monitoring.  The flashlight will lower the current when the LED or driver raises above 80 degrees centigrade to protect from overheat and extend lifespan.
• Intuitive.  Easy to use.  Tap once to cycle through modes. Double tap for "Turbo" mode.  Long-press for Firefly (moonlite) mode.  The flashlight remembers and recalls the last mode when you're ready to use it again--voila.  
• Extremely Powerful.  Turbo mode is NO joke.  Enough power to stand on its end and use to flood a large room with light.  Careful where you point this thing.  
• Extremely tough build quality.  This thing feels absolutely solid and is sealed against water. Not your typical run of the mill LED flashlight.  It's lightweight yet durable. It is designed to withstand drops of 6 ft according to the owners manual.  

Output Modes: 

• Strobe (1,150 lumens/150 minutes)
• Turbo (1,150 lumens/56 minutes)
• Medium (139 lumens/14 hours)
• Low (15 lumens/93 hours)
• Moonlite or "Firefly" mode (0.5 lumens/80 days)

My Thrunite TN4A arrives. Impressive Apple-Like packaging. 

Very nicely packaged. Comes with owners manual, nicely padded carrying case, and loop strap.

What's inside. 

What a beauty

Firefly Mode.  Incredibly cool mode which runs for 80 days!  Very very low power. Perfect for reading or doing something non-critical in the dark.  The above pic is about how it looks in a pitch black room. Those are my Oakley Mainlinks which I also purchased from Amazon and indeed are legit.

For inquiries: e46mango@gmail.com